This is a blog about my attempt to build a fixed wheel bicycle out of an old 80’s frame and a collection of parts.
Firstly the frame: This is a Harry Quinn “Crusader” touring frame. I don’t know much about it, but it seems to have been built in the dark years under the short period when the once mighty Quinn brand was under Falcon/Townsend ownership. It is made from Tange Mangaloy 2001 double butted tubes, including the forks, and has Prugnat lugs. The tubing is Manganese Molybdenum – similar to Reynolds 501, but fairly thick, so the frameset weighs a massive 2.5kg. This is heavy for a lightweight frame, but still pretty light. It has braze-ones for the rear brake cable, mudguards and a rear carrier, but not for derallieur levers or pump pegs. It has Shimano forged dropouts and the forks and stays are chrome plated under the paint.
A touring frame does not make the ideal fixed, but it’s a good toe in the water exercise for me, as I like the relaxed frame angles more than those of a track bike or racing frame. It was also cheap.
Here is the final spec:
Frame: Harry Quinn “Crusader” touring frame, Tange Mangaloy 2001 double butted tubes, stays and forks. Prugnat lugs.
Wheels: Remerx Taurus 5014 deep-v section aluminium rims,622×14, SJS Cycles track hubs, ‘flip-flop’ double fixed rear. Schwalbe Stelvio TYS2023 slick tyres
Drivetrain: 1981 Campagnolo Super Record 170mm time trial Strada crankset with 47t Super Record chainring. FAG Nadax sealed titanium bottom bracket, 18t cog, KMC Z510HX silver 1/8inch chain. Suntour Superbe Pro track pedals.
Headset: Tange Levin NL500 Steel.
Stem: Nitto ‘Dynamic 10′ 1 inch/100mm quill stem
Bars: Nitto RB-018 aluminium 38cm bullhorns with Brooks Honey leather bar tape.
Seat: System EX aluminium 27.0 seatpost and Brooks B17 Honey leather saddle.
Brake: Shimano BRR450 dual pivot front brake with Specialized extension lever.
So are you a true nerd then?
hi. love the project. i have also managed to pick up a harry quinn frame and is in the post. was just wondering if you had any trouble with chainline with this set up? apparently mine will have 130mm spacing at the rear. any advice?
cheers
I had no chainline issues because I bought a new narrow bottom bracket as well as the wheelset, and it turned out that the chainline was perfect. I had to narrow my rear stays from 126mm to 120mm to fit my wheel in. I put the bottom bracket and crank in, fitted the rear wheel and with the aid of a spirit level and a plum-line I established that it all lined up without any adjustment needed.
You can get rear hubs that are 130mm – Goldtec and Phill Wood for example. Phils have a narrower chainline than Goldtecs.
There is a list of transmission components that have worked for people:
http://www.londonfgss.com/thread3372-5.html#post913114
And Sheldon Brown made these lists of different components and their chainline.
http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Hey, no need to point and laugh, that’s a lovely piece of work, she looks great. I love the baby blue and Brooks brown combo.
I think touring frames make *great* fixed projects – I much prefer the look to the aggressive geometry of true track frames.
Nice work.
Next time you’ll be building your own wheels too…